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Wednesday, 12 March 2014

Casing

What is casing in terms of sewing?
A casing is a type of hem but, it encloses the elastic or drawstring.

What is the purpose of a casing?
In dressmaking, elastic or drawstrings are used to provide fullness and control over the fall of a garment be it the neckline (typically part of the design) or the waistband (to provide a perfect fit despite slight increase or decrease in waistline). Casings are used to enclose them.

Where is it used?
Neckline or bottom of blouses, the waistband or bottom of pants or pyjamas, sleeve cuffs, curtains (to insert curtain rods) etc.

Types of casing
  1. Fold down casing - is more commonly used. It is just a hem that accommodates the drawstring or elastic inside it.
  2. Applied casing - usually at the waist. A separate piece of fabric is used to make the casing either on the inside or the outside of the garment. The purpose is to allow the wearer to adjust the fit of the garment.
Resources:
  1. Casing
  2. Simplicity - Shortcut Sewing
  3. Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Needlework

Monday, 23 December 2013

Even Weave Fabric

In an even weave fabric, the number of weft and warp threads per square in is the same.

Warp  - the lengthwise threads on a loom over and under which the weft threads are passed to make cloth.
Weft or Woof - in weaving , the crosswise threads that are passed over and under the warp threads on a loom to make cloth
For more details check this link

Tuesday, 17 December 2013

Weft (Woof) and Warp

These terms pertain to the yarns used for weaving. The lengthwise yarn stretched tightly on the loom is called the warp thread and the yarn that's used for the interweaving is called weft thread. The warp yarn has to be really strong so it doesn't snap when subjected to high tension.


The images below taken from the book Weaving and Dyeing in Ancient Egypt illustrate the high tension the warp threads are subjected to during the weaving process. Click on the title to download the book from the Arizona Textile Library.


Why Should You Learn to Differentiate Between Weft and Warp?

While sewing garments, care should be taken to ensure that the weft thread of the fabric is parallel to the ground and not the warp thread. This is because the weft thread is weak and does not take well to wear and tear. A garment sewn with the warp parallel to the ground tends to tear more easily.